Coco Mademoiselle has been one of the world’s bestselling fragrances since 2001, so Chanel doesn’t touch it lightly. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Crush Asbolu is the first new version in six years, and in-house perfumer Olivier Polge has kept the famous backbone of amber, patchouli, vetiver, jasmine and vanilla, then thrown open the windows with a juicy opening of lychee, grapefruit and rose. He calls it “an affirmation of the self”. The lychee is very now (you’ll smell it in a lot of launches this year), but here it’s handled with Chanel polish, bright on the first spray and settling into something warm, luxurious and familiar. If you wore the original in your twenties and moved on, this is your way back in.

Notes: lychee, grapefruit, rose, jasmine, amber, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla

Wear it if: you loved the original but want something that feels new and grown-up

Glimmer is Estée Lauder’s first new fragrance franchise since Modern Muse in 2013, and the first gourmand in the brand’s 70-plus years of making perfume. The idea behind it is “glimmers”, the small everyday moments that lift your mood, and the trio of perfumers they assembled to create it have serious form. Dominique Ropion, known in the industry as “the master of flowers”, created Frédéric Malle’s Portrait of a Lady and Carnal Flower as well as Mugler’s Alien. Anne Flipo is the nose behind YSL Libre and Givenchy L’Interdit, and together the two co-created Lancôme’s La Vie Est Belle, the modern gourmand blockbuster. Jean-Marc Chaillan, who grew up in Grasse, completes the trio, with Tom Ford’s Bitter Peach among his credits.

What they’ve made is an amber floral with a gourmand twist. A raspberry mousse accord and orange flower open it up, a “macaron” rose and vanilla bean sit in the heart, and patchouli, sandalwood and tonka anchor the base. It sounds like dessert on paper, but the rose and woods stop it from tipping into sugary. Hailee Steinfeld fronts the campaign, and the 10ml at £25 is an easy way to try it.

Notes: raspberry mousse accord, orange flower, mandarin, macaron rose accord, vanilla bean, cashmeran, patchouli, sandalwood, cedarwood, tonka

Wear it if: you like a gourmand but want it to smell expensive

Few do signature scents better. Creed’s new launch Iris Debonair was inspired by the modern dandy, and it’s one of the most interesting scents the house has done. It pairs French orris, the most precious form of iris, with lavender grown for Creed in Kent, landing somewhere between a powdery floral and a classic barbershop fougère. A co-infusion of bergamot and absinthe, sharpened with pink pepper and cardamom, gives the opening real energy before it dries down to soft iris, ambrette and amberwood. It’s genderless and quietly confident, and it would suit anyone who usually finds most iris scents too prim.

Notes: bergamot and absinthe, pink pepper, cardamom, English lavender, violet leaf, fig, orris, ambrette, amberwood

Wear it if: you want something tailored, with a side of sexiness

Byredo’s latest scent, Future Memories, is about the moment the present turns into a memory, and perfumer Quentin Bisch has done something very clever with vanilla. Instead of leading with it, he opens with sharp green galbanum, tart blackcurrant and a fizz of aldehydes. A powdery heart of iris and orange blossom follows, and only then does a creamy, musky vanilla come through, soft and close to the skin. The effect is fresh at first and cosy by the end of the day. One for anyone who likes vanilla but not the dessert-trolley versions.

Notes: galbanum, blackcurrant, aldehydes, iris butter, orange blossom, labdanum, vanilla, musks, Ambrofix

Wear it if: you want a cosy winter scent to see you from dawn to dusk

Jo Malone’s biggest launch of the year, Sea Salt & Bergamot, is a companion to Wood Sage & Sea Salt, one of its all-time bestsellers. Where that scent stands on a windswept British shore, perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui has taken this one into the water, inspired by the surf of the Celtic Sea. Bergamot gives it a bright, zesty start, sea salt brings the minerality, and a driftwood accord keeps it grounded. It’s the freshest of our five and a lovely way to carry summer into the colder months, especially if you already own Wood Sage & Sea Salt.

Notes: bergamot, sea salt, driftwood accord

Wear it if: you want clean and fresh all year round